High Octane??

What does Harley recommend for octane 90+ right? And if so how do you raise it if you can`t find 90 or better octane? Booster?, ya I thought so too but 104+ website says don`t use it to try to make crappy gas better octane WTF??? confused. I have higher compression than a stock bike so what do you recommend? :bonk:

easy way around this half of the good shit and half of the 93 the higher the octane alcohol wtf ever the cooler the shit burns but runs better or something like that lol

Your local airport prolly has some high octane fuel....which you could mix with your super pump gas

My local dealer actually recommended against octane boosters . I run 93 in the summer , and 89 when the weather gets cold, it runs better. If I'm just taking it easy 89 runs fine . My only mods are slipons/Mikuni 42 /SE cleaner and ingintion wires though.

Allready checked on the airport but they won`t sell it private. Closest place for high octane is about 30 mi. and you can`t pump it straight in, gotta put it in a container. Guess I will get some sometime and just run crap the rest of the time?? :brew:

Allready checked on the airport but they won`t sell it private. Closest place for high octane is about 30 mi. and you can`t pump it straight in, gotta put it in a container. Guess I will get some sometime and just run crap the rest of the time?? :brew:

Why not take three 5gallon containers and fill them up....then mix your own from them?

have to i guess, thanks everyone!

How high a compression are we talking about here?

Octane is the measurement of a fuels resistance to ignighting. The higher the octane rating the harder it is to light the fire. Running too high octane fuel will hurt your performance. We as a group tend to modify our bikes (sometimes to extreme) this individuality makes it difficult to apply generalities. The exact formula of this or that might work fine in mine and may very well destroy yours depending on your combination of parts. If you are searching for a solution for detonation (spark knock), start by reading your plugs, if they show quite different burn patterns, your problem is more likley mechanical in nature ( fuel ratio, valves, head gasket, intake leak, ignition, etc) if they are the same and show aluminum colored spots (flakes of your piston tops) your detonation is severe, seek medical attention asap!.
try backing of the timing untill you expierence a loss in power, if this happens with very little timing reduction and has little or no effect on detonation you are probobly on the right track with the fuel quality. You can richen the fuel mixture a small amount then would normally be recommended, this will reduce inlet charge temp. and can patch this problem, never go too rich however as it will wash the oil from the cylinder walls and cause much sadness. If you have, however, gone completly insane (unfamiler condition in our kind) with the compression you will be reduced to seeking/brewing your own batch of rocket fuel. As insanity appears to run amuck in my family (many cubes, high compression and unrealistic cam profiles) I can understand your pain. If you do locate a reciepe for 106+ octane leaded fuel, please feel free to forward it along, there just might be more out there like us.
Tiresmoke

Also ....there is an art to doing a "plug chop". My truest evaluation of a plug is to always run the engine at WOT then kill the ignition, doing the plugchop immediately after shutoff.

If you check your plug after idle..it will be off!

I've Never heard of "plug chop" I'm allways willing to learn. This sounds like it would leave you with a lot of unburned fuel on the plugs though, after killing the spark at high rpm, the engine will continue to draw fuel in through the carb untill it stops spinning. with no spark to light this fuel, it will remain on the plugs, could lead you to the conclusion that it's running rich? unless you are running fuel injection, but new fuel injected bikes never have any problems, right?

The way I was taught was to put several sets of plugs in your saddle bag. Put a set in and run it through the gears holding at highway speed for about a mile and then pull in the clutch and cut it off, pull over and read um and do it again with a new set.

thats what i meant by WOT..."wide open throttle"

as smeg said...you should pull in the clutch...this would stop your crank, thus no more fuel sucked into your manifold.

sorry for the vague post...but I was in a rush when I posted it.