c.crawford
09-29-2006, 12:06 PM
The honda ignition switch has two circuits, the tail light and everything else. Old ignition switch don't go snap snap between positions anymore. It is part of the same problem. The big problem is, a worn out switch can turn on everything except the tail light. The brake light will still work. Unless it is dark, I havn't been noticing. Some LEDs are not visible in daylight.
I resolved to fix the no tail light condition without knowing it was just the ignition switch. I had the seat, windshield, tail light lense and headlamp off to expose the wiring harness. All of the connectors were cleaned and Di-electric grease put on them. I eventually found both tail light / brake light bulbs and circuits were good.
I had recently changed the voltage regulator - rectifier because it had failed while trying to outrun a huge storm. That used VRR had only lasted a month. I have also put on a voltage meter because I want to know when to dash for home before the battery dies.
I went to Orville Green who said he didn't have a VRR, the used ones were all burnt out. Daniel Stalker said he wanted $150 for a used aftermarket VRR. Duane at Cycle Works said at the time he didn't have one. Dennis at Tin Ponys said he searched in the woods through the hulks in the weather for a used VRR. Then found a 'New OEM' and wanted $200 for it. I wanted to ride but it turned out to be a big mistake, That VRR is not as good as it should be!:puke: It is sloppy. It wont regulate untill it gets to 14.6 volts. It just lays down on the battery and won't do nutthin untill 3KRPM. The old specs are like that so don't buy a new $209 VRR from Honda either. Get a good one from Rick's Motorsport Electronics ($109) or anyone else.
The ignition switch can be repaired with a new bottom contact assembly, $14.95. It is an after market part. After careful alignment it just pushes in and snaps home. All three snaps have to be completely seated. None of the cables can get near it and may have to be re-routed. Then clean up the wiring harness connector, use di-electric grease on the contacts, and plug it in.
I resolved to fix the no tail light condition without knowing it was just the ignition switch. I had the seat, windshield, tail light lense and headlamp off to expose the wiring harness. All of the connectors were cleaned and Di-electric grease put on them. I eventually found both tail light / brake light bulbs and circuits were good.
I had recently changed the voltage regulator - rectifier because it had failed while trying to outrun a huge storm. That used VRR had only lasted a month. I have also put on a voltage meter because I want to know when to dash for home before the battery dies.
I went to Orville Green who said he didn't have a VRR, the used ones were all burnt out. Daniel Stalker said he wanted $150 for a used aftermarket VRR. Duane at Cycle Works said at the time he didn't have one. Dennis at Tin Ponys said he searched in the woods through the hulks in the weather for a used VRR. Then found a 'New OEM' and wanted $200 for it. I wanted to ride but it turned out to be a big mistake, That VRR is not as good as it should be!:puke: It is sloppy. It wont regulate untill it gets to 14.6 volts. It just lays down on the battery and won't do nutthin untill 3KRPM. The old specs are like that so don't buy a new $209 VRR from Honda either. Get a good one from Rick's Motorsport Electronics ($109) or anyone else.
The ignition switch can be repaired with a new bottom contact assembly, $14.95. It is an after market part. After careful alignment it just pushes in and snaps home. All three snaps have to be completely seated. None of the cables can get near it and may have to be re-routed. Then clean up the wiring harness connector, use di-electric grease on the contacts, and plug it in.